morocco

Morocco is a country of contrasts, and nowhere is that clearer than in Marrakech. In the medina, light and shadow play off each other in ways that feel almost choreographed. Sunlight filters through narrow alleys, illuminating small pockets of space while leaving others in deep shade. For a photographer, it’s an exercise in patience—waiting for the right figure to step into that beam of light, turning a simple alleyway into something striking.

Photographing people, however, brings a different kind of challenge. Some locals welcome the camera, happily inviting you to capture their world, while others are wary, even confrontational. Moroccan-French photographer Leila Alaoui explained that photography here is often met with suspicion, rooted in both superstition and fatigue with foreign tourists framing Morocco as an “exotic” destination. For a visitor, this can be tough; with only a short time in the city, building the kind of trust that allows for authentic portraits can feel almost impossible.

In the souks, this theme of contrast continues. At street level, skilled artisans work by hand, crafting leather bags, forging metal, and baking fresh bread—traditions passed down for generations. But look up, and you’ll see rooftop restaurants serving everything from traditional tajine to sushi, creating a trendy atmosphere that draws a modern crowd. It’s a fascinating mix of the timeless and the contemporary, each adding to the energy of the city.

A few hours outside Marrakech, the High Atlas Mountains rise in the distance, marking the beginning of a dramatic shift in pace. Head out on the well-constructed highways toward popular sites like Ait Benhaddou, and you’ll find a world built for tourists. But if you venture east, away from the highways, Morocco’s rural life comes into view. Here, the landscape opens up, the noise fades, and the rhythm of farm life feels miles away from the hustle of the medina. Follow the steps of shepherds and their flocks into high mountain valleys, where the first snow of the season dusts the peaks and the only sound is the wind brushing past your ears. Explore their now-abandoned hideouts and imagine the vibrant life that fills these hills in summer. Instead of city sounds, you hear the breeze and the occasional call of a farmer, a reminder that Morocco holds worlds within itself, just waiting to be explored.

Each of these contrasts—between light and dark, openness and suspicion, street-level tradition and rooftop innovation, city life and rural quiet—tells a story. For a photographer, Morocco is a place where every corner offers a new perspective, capturing a country that is as layered as it is captivating.

Thanks to Fernando Vacaflores for showing me around the narrow alleys of the Marrakech medina.

October 2024